Chora, the perched capital of Samothraki

The capital of the island is called Chora (though on some maps or signs, you may find it even under the name of Samothraki). Among other things, the word chora also means the capital of an island. In the local dialect, it is called Chourgio.

A few words about Chora

Chora is not a port or seaside town, as one might expect, but lies inland on the northwestern side, in a small valley hidden between the peaks of Mount Saos. More precisely – at the foot of Mount Ai Georgios, at an altitude of around 2-300m.

The exact period when the inhabitants moved to these places is unknown. We only know the reason: even though it's only 5-6 km away from the shore, it's less accessible and hidden from view from the sea. Therefore, it was safe from pirate attacks, which, for centuries, represented one of the main dangers. During the ferry ride to Samothraki, the town is briefly visible when you pass by where the Katsabas River meets the sea.

Until the 1980s, Chora was the main settlement of Samothraki. Over time, a large part of the population moved to Kamariotissa, the island's port, and today, Chora has only about 6-700 inhabitants (this number is only about 200 in winter). Even if it is no longer the largest town, it has remained the administrative capital. Chora is home to the city hall, the fire department, the cultural center, the library and the medical center (unfortunately under constant renovation after the catastrophic autumn 2017 floods).

"Capital" sounds somewhat pretentious. Chora is, in fact, a picturesque traditional town, flanked by two heights – Vrychos to the west (where the ruins of an Iron Age settlement are located) and Koukos to the east. The stone houses that seem to stand on top of each other are built like an amphitheater, in parallel rows that follow the contour lines, so that the sunlight can reach them all. The tiled roofs are fixed with stones, which protect them from strong winds.

Most houses have two floors and a balcony and date from the end of the 19th century or the beginning of the 20th century. Chora's appearance today is largely the result of the reconstruction after the powerful earthquake of early 1893. It is reported that out of the 600 houses in Chora, only 100 were left standing. Before the earthquake, the houses had flat roofs (aetsa), traditional for the Mediterranean area and increasingly rare nowadays. Newer buildings were more urban, influenced by the mainland. The reconstructed houses were bigger and had two or four-sloped roofs with tiles.

Among the cobblestones of the pavement of Chora, you can sometimes spot pieces of marble from the Sanctuary of the Great Gods in Paleopolis. Also from there originate the cylinders used to press the traditional aetsa roofs. Because they were made out of a mixture of algae, clay and earth, constant waterproofing against the autumn rains was needed.

How do you get to Chora?

There are three access roads into Chora. The most trafficked are those starting from Kamariotissa and Paleopoli. Another road connects it to Alonia and the southwestern part of the island.

If you are coming from Paleopoli, you can leave the car at the top, on the side of the road that climbs to the fortress. If you are coming from Kamariotissa, there are several parking spaces at the bottom, near the fire station. In July and August, when it is crowded, you will only find a free spot in the large parking lot located at the intersection of the roads coming from Kamariotissa and Paleopoli (if you want to go up to the citadel, you will have to walk up a little).

What to do in Chora?

Chora is a tourist attraction in itself, so the best thing to do is walk around and enjoy the atmosphere. It is a charming old town with narrow, inclined and twisted streets, interrupted by a few small squares and plane trees. Google Maps is almost useless, so whatever you do, don't go into town with your car because you will most likely get stuck. Since 1978, the Greek state has declared it a "preserved traditional settlement".

The ruins of the medieval fortress dominate Chora from the top of the rock. The fortress was built between 1431-1433 by Gateluzzi, in an attempt to fortify the island. Of Genoese origin, the Gateluzzi family ruled Samothraki for 25 years, from 1430 to 1455. They are also responsible for the construction of the three towers in Paleopoli, as well as the tower on Fonias Beach. You can visit the fortress during high season, from Thursday to Sunday, between 08.30 and 15.30. Entry is free if you can go past the group of cats that guards the entrance.

Moving away from the fortress, an arrow to the left indicates a small church from 1875, dedicated to the Presentation of the Virgin at the Temple.

Moving forward, you will reach the traditional bakery, which has been running non-stop since 1853. It is open during the summer, and if you stop by in the morning, you can treat yourself to the pies and bread baked in the wood-fired oven.

A couple of houses down the street, there is a jewelry store and the charming To Gid' – Goat Shop, where you can buy various goat-themed souvenirs printed with funny designs. The goats, a symbol of the island, are ubiquitous in Samothraki. There is also a pottery workshop nearby.

On the back street, higher up and parallel to the one that passes in front of the fortress, you can visit a private ethnographic collection during the summer. There's no entrance fee, but donations are encouraged. It is the house where Maria Ververi, poet, artist and ethnographer, grew up. She is the one who usually greets you, eager to share stories and memories. Nearby are the small churches of Agios Evplos and Agios Dimitris.

Continuing on the lower road, you will reach the most important church on the island – the Church of the Assumption, dating from the end of the 19th century. The skulls of the five new martyrs of Samothraki (killed by the Turks during the massacre of 1821) are kept inside. It's also the home of the most beloved icon on the island: the icon of the Virgin Mary, brought from the chapel of Panagia Krimniotissa, which stands on a cliff, near the beach of Pachia Ammos. If you happen to be around on a Sunday morning or the day of a major religious holiday, you will see how the locals, dressed in their finest clothes, come out after the service holding bouquets of basil in their hands. On the 15th of August, the island's biggest celebration, dedicated to the Virgin, takes place in Chora. The religious service is followed by a big street party with traditional food and dancing in the square next to the church.

Right next to the church is the Folk Museum. It is worth a visit to see how the inhabitants of Samothraki used to live in the past.

Nearby, going towards the square where everyone gathers in the summer, you will find a clothing shop (Koutraki) and some souvenirs. More shops are on your way down to the parking lot, next to the fire station.

Below, in front of the building (under reconstruction) of the Health Center, there is a monument. It was erected in memory of the 700 inhabitants of the island slaughtered by the Turks in 1821. The place is called Efkas in dialect (from Eptakosia, meaning "700", the number of those who were killed).

Wandering through Chora, you will come across other small churches. Among them are Agios Stefanos (Saint Stephen), painted in white and blue, the Church of the Five New Martyrs (on the opposite side of the fortress, built in 1836) and the Church of the Nativity of the Virgin (in the valley on the left, as you come from Kamariotissa, near the ruins of an old mill ). A dirt road on Vrychos takes you to the church of Zoodohos Pigi ("The Life-giving Spring"), with a beautiful view of the bay of Kamariotissa.

If you are looking for a quiet and shady place, take a walk through the pine forest above Chora. The pines were planted in the 1950s to protect the town from floods and landslides. The stone building in the woods is the Forestry Office and there is also a small church dedicated to the Holy Trinity. People say that in 2008, this church miraculously saved the town from a fire.

You can also take a short walk on the dirt road next to the football field (on the left, as you go towards Alonia). You will reach two small churches: Sotiros (meaning "Saviour"), next to which are the ruins of a once famous tavern on the island, and Agios Georgios. On August 6th, the locals come to the former to celebrate the Transfiguration.

Above the football field, another road goes up to the churches of Agia Kyriaki ("Holy Sunday") and Panagia tis Koufis ("Our Lady of the Deaf") where, according to tradition, the hearing impaired go to be healed.

Where to eat and drink in Chora?

Taverns

The few tavernas in Chora are only open during the high season. In the square dedicated to Nikolaos Fardys, a scholar born in Samothraki, is Taverna 1900. (Fardys' house still exists and has been converted into a guesthouse).

On the street going up from the fire station is Taverna To Stenaki, whose menu, based on local and seasonal ingredients, changes often.

Taverna Aetsa is next to the traditional bakery and has the same owners. It sits on top of one of the last traditional roofs left in Chora and is open only in summer.

For a simple and authentically local experience, try Taverna Chondros, located at the bottom, across the street from the fire station.

You will also find cooked (and tasty) food at the traditional ouzeria Kesmes, which takes its name from the stone well by the old town hall.

Cafes and bars

There may not be many taverns in Chora, but there are quite a few bars and cafes, many offering a great view. Some of them will serve you omelets, pancakes, desserts or snack plates (mezedakia) – see also the article about food in Samothraki.

At the top, right next to the citadel, is the Cafe O Pyrgos ("The Tower"). It is only open during the summer. It offers breakfast and homemade desserts, and the benches on the side have a nice view.

Next to the Goat Shop is the Meltemi Cafe (meltemi is the name of a strong wind - see the article about the weather in Samothraki). It is open all year round and has a terrace shaded by vines.

A little further is the Kalderimi cafe (which opens during summer), with desserts and a small balcony overlooking the houses of Chora.

In the main square, you will find several bars and cafes. Trapeza Café, open from spring to October, operates in the premises of the former bank (hence the name – trapeza translates as "bank"). The cafe has a warm, beautifully decorated interior and a balcony with a view. Here you can find breakfast, pancakes, desserts, ice cream and homemade liqueurs.

Right next to it, the traditional Alekas cafe ("the coffeeshop of Aleka") is a meeting place for the locals.

A little further is Lefkos Pyrgos ("White Tower"), a cafe-patisserie whose owner, a pastry chef, lives and works in France during the winter. The cafe is known for its sweets, especially the one called Pissa kai poupoula ("Tar and feathers") – a tart with chocolate and ice cream. They also have a wide selection of craft beers and cocktails.

Across the road is Lydia, a cocktail bar, and further on is Dimitris Cafe.

At the bottom, next to the monument erected in memory of the massacre of 1821, is the cafe O Stathmos ("The Stop"). It is open all year round, offers desserts in a jar and sandwiches and is also popular with the locals.

Bakeries and confectioneries

In addition to the traditional bakery of the Antonis family, already mentioned above, there is the Salamanis bakery.

Next to the fire station, there's Samothraki, a shop with homemade desserts and local products. I recommend it, especially for their craft chocolate.

Is it worth staying in Chora?

The answer depends greatly on your preferences and habits. Recently, a lot of the old stone houses in Chora were transformed into apartments for rent (with the pros and cons that come with this type of tourism). Most accommodation is of this type. A beautifully renovated and furnished hotel is Axiokersa.

If you like traditional settlements, Chora can be a good place to stay. You are not on the seaside, but you have a beautiful view and you have the best bars and cafes on the island at your disposal. Studios or apartments can also be advantageous for families with children.

Keep in mind, however, that outside the tourist season, the majority of the restaurants in Chora are closed. Furthermore, to get to some of the accommodations, you will need to walk up from the lower parking lot on steep streets.